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April 24, 2002--PM
Since 6pm yesterday we have been traveling away from Cocos Island Costa Rica towards Galapagos Island, Equator.  Today the seas were so tight and steep that with the wind coming on our nose at 12-20 knots we were forced to veer off course for about 6 hours due to the beating our bridge deck was taking not to mention everything being shaken inside the boat.  Catamarans are very comfortable except when going into weather, which is when they are ungodly, noisy, and rolly.  The reason we chose a catamaran was for the space it provided as well as the down wind sailing comfort which is what we enjoyed all along the south American coast and what we should be able to enjoy most of the way from Galapagos to Australia.  At this moment, we are fortunate enough for the first time in the last 600 miles of sailing to have the wind, tide and current in our favor.  It is nighttime however and very rainy with huge cells of convection surrounding us so we continue motoring with only the main to stabilize us as we roll over the 4-foot choppy waves.  We still have 290 miles to go which calculates to another 2 days if conditions remain at our current stellar speed of 5.3 knots over ground.  We are heavily laden with provisions to last through to Marquises and with the one engine newly rebuilt, we are hesitant to push.  In the morning if conditions persist in our favor and the weather clears some, we will put up full sail and terminate the constant rumble that plagues us from the motors.  The salon looks like a tornado hit it with wet clothing strewn over everything and bodies of those next on watch sprawled on the couch.  Memories of large pelagic from Cocos and hopes of wonderful nature sightings in the Galapagos keep our spirits up in these uncomfortable seas.

April 26th 2002
Finally, we are able to sail-we made a whole 50 miles yesterday avoiding huge seas and /or trying to sail to give the engines a rest.  The engines on this boat are light 30 horse power Yanmar's which are ideal for back up engines or for motoring in relatively flat seas but are not intended for seas where you are getting pounded into the waves.  Just our luck to have 3 days and nights of this garbage but it could be worse as our friends who are sailing straight from Panama to Galapagos are finding out.  They have the seas directly on their nose and have no chance of sailing unless veering way off course.  Given that this is an exception in our usual comfort level on this boat, I guess I should stop complaining and concentrate on the positives----Last night when I took over the watch from Chris he pointed out the birds on the fore deck.  We had three red-footed boobies (see photo from the Aves) on board.  They are my favorite and gave us a touch of connection with the diverse land we are approaching.  Then there are the constant escorts lately.  Dolphin jump and carouse around the hulls no doubt enjoying a fresh catch from under us as it creates a perfect place for small fish to hang out of the reach of the abundant sea birds.  -Time to make lunch-the crew is getting restless-the hard thing is going into the galley with the rock an roll of the boat-by the time you are finished with preparation you don't feel like eating! I should feel fortunate however, as our friend on the mono hulls are not able to cook in the galley unless tied in, in these type of seas.

April 28, 2002
Yesterday we pulled into Puerto Ayora on the Island of Santa Cruz, Galapagos. We were able to sail almost the whole last day and then motor into port-we had sunny skies, flat seas and the current was pushing with us for a change It was nice to dry out and have our equilibrium return to normal!

Once in port our friends on the boat Ventana invited us over for much needed margaritas.  Afterwards we enjoyed a wonderful dinner Isabel prepared and watched "Almost Famous" which we had not seen before.  (It is always a joy to watch someone else's movies!)  We fell fast asleep at 9pm only to be rudely awakened with a grinding crunch when the boat next to us "tapped" his hull against ours as he was pulling up anchor!  A big fright but not to worry -he had caught his anchor chain on a rock which lead his boat towards us and when correcting hit his port stern pontoon against our starboard hull-- it was just a small scratch.  They came over and apologized etc. and we went back to bed-another exciting morning in a tight anchorage!!-Give me some coffee!

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