Kelcey Chandler-Yates and Jim Yates present...

UnderSeaPhotoVideo.com

October 3, 2002
Today we were pleasantly surprised with Taupiri coming to the boat at 9am telling us to hurry and get ready we are going to the pearl farm!!  Was I excited-for 3 months now I have wanted to photograph a pearl farm from underwater and I thought I had lost my chance by being lazy when we were in Raroia. Pancakes on the griddle were turned off and schoolwork put aside for later, off we went to the farm. Nothing more than a 200-meter strand of rope with submerged buoys at intervals along it. Suspending from it however were small baskets of oysters. Taupiri was busily untying these and carrying them to his boat. All with a 15-pound weight belt on and only short flippers to propel him, no tank, BC or even a warm wet suit! When I was finished documenting the event I helped him and even with a buoyancy vest it was hard for me to carry these heavy baskets the 30 yards to the boat! When he finished gathering the baskets he chose to take back to the motu he asked me to scan the bottom for lost oysters. In a short time I found 7 of them who via strong wave action had been shaken from their nest. Upon arriving back at the motu we showered and then joined Taupiri on the beach were Rose was already peaking into the oysters and prodding for pearls. It was not a very productive adventure for them however. Out of 35 oysters only 8 had anything in them and only 3 of them worth anything at all. No perfect pearls were found. For this I felt sad as I know how much work is involved for such a low payment. Perhaps next time will show more profit.

October 4th 2002
Jim and my 15th anniversary - we all forgot until late in the eve when a congratulatory note was received from my mother in law! Jim and I looked at each other in disbelief-we had never forgotten our anniversary and with my birthday tomorrow to remind us it seems absurd that we did this year-the only explanation we could find was that we have finally reached that contentment in our marriage where dates and times mean little but the experiences we are having tell all.  Or perhaps it is the fact that the locals have been organizing a "surprise" birthday party for me all week, collecting lobsters, sand lobsters (mantis shrimp) and today slaughtering a pig. I guess anything to celebrate, but it is very special to us to be the focus of their attention. I suppose since we have been here for over a month citizenship of the motu will be next!

October 5, 2002....My 44th b-day!

October 6th
Great night at Taupiri's last eve. They had a birthday party for me in at their home with the folks off Oddly Enough, Brianna and Wind walker. Fresh coconut crab, pork (which we new was fresh as we heard it's squeals before it's demise) poisson cru and then mantis shrimp was specially prepared for me alone which I shared with the rest of the people (it was delicious). Then for the clincher Rose baked me a beautiful chocolate cake with bunches of candles on it. It was so beautiful I cried. She also made me a basket and hat from palm fronds as well as giving me a beautiful sarong. I could not ask for much more in the way of locals bringing me into their family. After dinner John Paul serenaded us on his ukulele and Taupiri on the guitar while Rose played spoons in a hinano beer bottle!  They played till 10 when all the rest went to their boats and then the workers who have been here from Papeete to fix the markers and lights, came over and played for me till 1 am! I was so tired I could hardly keep my eyes open but felt stuck by their hospitality and love. Today was kicked back and Ann and I beaded earrings.

October 8, 2002
Yesterday was really a lot of fun as I went to shore and took images of grandma in her lime green shirt with all my jewelry on. She recently had a mastectomy and you would not know that she had a bit of problem with it, as she was proud as hell about her beauty even with the lack of one breast. Not that the loss of it made her any less beautiful as it was only later upon contemplating the shoot that I remembered her medical history! I also was privy to photographing a wonderfully handsome man from Marquises who has curly black long hair and fabulous tattoos. What was so wonderful was not that he is so handsome but more so the fact that he is photogenic. I took some images and then we chatted with all three men, all at once I noticed that this man was swimming in the sun lit crystal clear turquoise water! WOW did I get some great shots! Then we all sat around and listened to the other guy play the guitar for an hour! Today I traded my jewelry for some beautiful pearls. Perfect ones!  I then taught the German diving again. He did very well. Tomorrow will not be so glamorous - Laundry!

October 10, 2002
Well laundry was not quite as bad as I thought it would be. I was able to use Valentines washer! Not as easy as one has it at home but MUCH easier than on the boat with buckets and limited water! We sat under trees sipping cold water looking at the beautiful blue waters and coral reefs and listened to the palm trees swaying in the gentile breeze. God I am fortunate!! I love it here and to think we will leave here in a few short days is hard to conceive. We had Gaston and Valentine over for a pizza party with the folks from Oddly Enough. We made eight pizzas and devoured every one! The pickings are slim now for toppings but we managed to blow their minds with food which is an accomplishment considering they are Polynesians and used to 7-10 items to choose from at each meal, all being equally as delicious. Today made it all the harder-we were finally invited to go to the motu to harvest pearls with Gaston and Valentine. Ann and Tom came along. We arrived around 10 and Jim quickly slipped into the water to film Gaston collecting the oysters. After the oysters were hauled aboard Jim handed me the camera and went back down this time to the bottom in search of stray oysters. After finding 20 or so he surfaced and we headed to the dock. It is a small motu about one acre in size. It has a small hut they built for sleeping and pots and pans, glasses and a table. We were introduced to their pet grouper Nichola, whom later we would pet and hand feed oysters which were not fit for re implantation due to the color of pearl they had produced. Then we saw the coconut crabs they had introduced to the motu, which they are awaiting to harvest until after they grow large and produce offspring. I enjoyed photographing Valentine harvesting the pearls and Gaston opening them ever so gently and placing the wooden pegs so Valentine could see into the oysters. They were true professionals, quick and slick, not wanting time while joking and jibing each other in Tahitian. Both photogenic and naturally gregarious, we all had a most enjoyable time joking back. On the way back Chris was allowed to drive the big boat with a 125 hp engine and he was in seventh heaven. Upon arriving back Liza, Taupiri and Valentines sister, arrived and I was able to sell my jewelry to her. She had several nice irregular pearls but I chose to pass and opted for cold cash as I have plenty of irregulars and with the money perhaps can find some nice rounds for the necklace I am slowly collecting for. Poisson cru and baked grouper and rice with pizza as starter were a great way to end the day.

October 12, 2002
Well here we are on our way from Toau to Apataki. It is good to be under sail once again but it was tearful saying goodbye to such good friends. Last eve we had the whole island/ 6 people plus the Oddly clan, and us for dinner. Cal zones and pasta as well a poison cru and rice was the fair. Taupiri unfortunately got snockered on rum the Germans left and was very obnoxious! It was not a pretty sight, such a wonderful man with such a problem. One would like to tell all not to leave alcohol for him but life is life I suppose. We all dealt with him but felt sorry for John Paul who was quite embarrassed with the whole situation. This morning the ladies put away their differences, which stem from their men, to join us on the boat for cake and coffee. Awkward also as Taupiri was mad at Rose for going when Valentine was here-I guess it is time to leave as their differences are making me feel in the mid line! Anyhow gifts galore were exchanged and hugs American style-big bear hugs were given, none of this French kissy on the cheek stuff for good byes. We were not alone as our hugs were returned tenfold! God I love these people!! This is what life is about!!

Apataki to Papeete, Tahiti - South Pass of Apataki

October 13, 2002
After arriving here, fighting massive current while we awaited another boat to move up the pier, the children of the village here converged upon our boat. I gave the boys over fused earrings and the girl’s small earrings. Nick took the bird, Loreto, off the boat to kiss the children. He was a huge hit and by dinnertime the children were taking turns holding him as he jabbered in Spanish to them! While all this was happening I spotted a colorful character down the quay. She was older with a bright green shirt, mottled shorts and a large brimmed hat with a lay of frangipani flowers around it. I had to make contact! She was extremely friendly and allowed me to photograph her mercilessly. She had brought eggs from her motu to sell to the store and as her husband drove up on his bicycle, circa 1950, she loaded him up with flats of eggs. Next thing you know they were visiting on the boat in broken English and French and we found that they were the Aunt and Uncle Valentine from Toau was speaking of! They have a huge pearl farm and invited us to join them there this next week. Naturally we will oblige. They even have a pet 6-foot nurse shark, which you can pet. They left for church services and we enjoyed the lobster Gaston gave us as a parting gift from Toau.

October 14, 2002 - Motu Tomoru
After a day and a half of generator noise and children screaming for Loreto at 5 am we left the south pass at slack tide with not a regret. We now are at the pearl farm due east from the southern pass. The man we met –Arman- yesterday greeted us in his boat and showed us where to anchor. After we rested for a bit and ate lunch Jim, Chris and I all went to shore while the Oddly folks and Nick took a swim. What an operation! Banks of chicken for eggs he sells to the store at the pass, Vanilla beans he sells to Papeete, figs, lemons, limes, oranges and bananas for their own consumption. There is a resident cook as well as two workers and his son who are all currently polishing the oyster shells for resale in Papeete. He took us to the shore on the ocean side of the motu where he told us to help ourselves to lobster we can catch at the lunar set and coconut crabs we are welcome to catch if we can stand the mosquitoes. A boat was out off shore fishing and in my still very broken French I asked them what they were catching. He explained that they were fishing at 200 meters or 600 plus feet for paru which are red or green in color and bring 150 dollars a kilo to their barer!   Naturally I wanted to know what they looked like and he said a fish! Next thing you know he told us to stay put so he could run, bare foot across rough coral, to his home to get the portable radio. Returning 10 minuets later with cold coconuts for drinking he tossed them to us and then ran to the surf across the coral, still barefoot, and awaited a buoy to float toward him. As he scooped it out of the surf we noticed two fish tied to it, bright red in color and shimmering in the sunlight!   One for you and one for me he smiles! Returning to the boat we share in our amazement. The generosity of these people is certainly unsurpassed!

October 15, 2002
The day began for me pollinating vanilla plants with a toothpick! Arman met me at his dock and we sauntered up to the vanilla plants grabbing bananas as we went. I took images with my camera as he wandered through the plant which look surprisingly like orchids and grow in rows on coconut husks which are stacked upon a piece of rebar and placed in an enclosure shading them from the intense heat of the mid day. For each vanilla bean a flower must be pollinated by hand so each and every day he must pollinate. The effort pays however as vanilla beans bring 250 dollars per kilo in Papeete.

Next we gathered eggs from the chicken coops and separated the cracked ones from the whole ones, which will go to town tomorrow. Wiping them down and placing them pointed end down in egg crate flats. These bring 10 dollars each flat in the village at the south pass. Once finished with the eggs I grabbed Jim off the boat and brought him in with all his tools and spare parts so he could work on the regulators that they use for installing new oyster lines. It took us 4 hours but all but one work wonderfully now although they were disgustingly corroded when we started. That one we tossed in the trash! For Jim’s hard work he received a 12 mm perfect black pearl and lunch for our family! Smoked triggerfish and rice with a delicious tomato sauce was served on a picnic table by the beach. Palm trees swaying, turquoise waters shimmering and all-together as a family—this life is the best!!   Unfortunately on the news we heard about the 8 people in Washington who were killed by terrorists today. It is a bizarre world.

October 19, 2002
With Arman gone the work pace should have abated---not! Alfred his son, is obviously more of a workaholic than his father! Polishing the oyster shells to sell to Japan kept three workers and Alfred busy 9 hours a day throughout our stay. He did take time to show me how to make beautiful pearl bracelets as well as enjoy several meals with us. He speaks fairly fluent English and seemed to like my company. Fresh figs were bagged and waiting for us each morning when we arrived to pet the resident nurse shark who hangs under their dock. Like a dog he arrives with a quick little splash at the waters edge summoning him. He seems to like being pet, especially on the top of his head! Unfortunately my camera always seemed to be on the boat when we arrived in the morning so no images are there for the gazing but some things are etched in memory better than on film. Our visit to the oysters was captured on film however, with the kids snorkeling down to gaze at the happy oysters hanging in the clear water. This farm is a might bit more cared for than those we have previously seen. The oysters are clean, ropes un fouled and very few dead ones. Alfred does an inspection every Saturday to make sure no lines are chafed or oysters escaped. Obviously it pays as he says his rate of return is 70 percent with over 20 percent being perfect. Time to move to the other anchorage across the lagoon so we can dive the pass tomorrow.

October 20, 2002
The crossing to the other pass was uneventful meaning no balmies in or way and fair winds. Ann from oddly and I went shelling on the beach and then we all enjoyed the torrential downpour as it filled our water tanks and I did laundry. After the storm we enjoyed a beautiful drift dive into the pass. A few sharks and many fish but the landscape of it was the highlight. Different than all the other passes this one was scoured into a moonscape type landscape. Beautiful! A good way to end our stay in the Tuamotus as tomorrow we leave for Tahiti.

October 21, 2002
Spinner dolphin to the right and pilot whales to the left as we exited the pass of Apataki. The Tahiti Aggressor arrived this am so we knew it was time to move on!

---News flash—we just caught a huge marlin---well not exactly caught but fought it for over 40 min and brought it right up to the back of the boat when with a flick of his head and a hard pull by Jim and he freed himself. We were happy to have our lure and he his freedom as we were getting ready to cut the line standing firm in our agreement to free any bill fish after catching the sailfish on the Panama - Cocos crossing. The fight was magnificent with several (over ten although some on this boat say 15, tail stands and full body flights across the water. I may have even caught a picture or two!

This life is unbelievable! In the past 2 hours we caught another marlin a, a mahi mahi and a wahoo! It will be hard to be in the states for four months even though we miss our friends and family. Three more weeks and reality(?) will smack us in the face. What changes will occur in the children—what changes will we experience? Things are so good in our marriage and with the children I hate to make the change and experience turmoil—but ass they say—that is life! I cannot hog the children from their grandparents and I just can’t see my 97 year old grandmother coming to see them even with her vitality. Sweeping the driveway is a might bit different than climbing in and out of the dinghy and up and down to the staterooms!—no—add that to the fact that she hates boat and the fact that we must take them home for a spin is obvious!