Kelcey Chandler-Yates and Jim Yates present...

UnderSeaPhotoVideo.com

April 10, 2004

Kelcey Gets Bent!!

D.A.N. Air Ambulance from Jet City in Melbourne, Australia.

March 25, 2004- 7:04 am
This day began early, racing out of bed, get the coffee going and off to the ship-the ship I will call home for the next 5 days on my excursion to Vava'u.

Life has been a whirlwind for the past three weeks. First I was "bent" diving a "normal" dive, which we had dived 10 times before without incident. This time however my time was marked. As I rose with plenty of time and plenty of air, I did my routine safety stops Jim hassles me about mercilessly. You see I like to do 2 safety stops and will not even dive with someone who refuses to do my "non-optional" 3 min at 15 feet stop. I am the conservative one, always drinking plenty of water before and after the dive, never drinking 24 hour pre- or post-dive and very rarely doing decompression dives unless there is a really good reason.

This dive was one of those conservative dives but after over 2000 dives it looks like my time was up. Within 5 min of surfacing I felt a peculiar pain in the right side of my neck. Within 30 min. my right side was weak and my total right side as well as torso and left lower limb was numb. In hindsite it was obvious what was happening, as it is classic symptoms of the "bends" but given the "normal" dive profile and over abundance of safety stops, we dismissed it as a symptom of my chronic neck problems. I did, however, put myself on high flow O2 for an hour and took a nap. After a few hours I felt remarkably better but still had noticeable right leg weakness as well as right facial numbness. The rest of the crew ignored my insinuations that something was radically wrong with my body. I would regret not pushing the issue.

At 4am the next day I awoke and insisted Jim come out and watch the sun rise with me! -Anyone who knows me would think this Very Strange, as I love to sleep the morning away. It was a beautiful sunrise, complete with flying squirrels silhouetted in the pink dawn light. Hinano, my trusted mutt, lying on my lap knew something was wrong, as she had not left my side since the end of the dive.

Around 6:30 I arose from my comfy spot on deck, and had a difficult time using my right leg and stumbled-"Jim," I said," we need to call DAN (Divers Alert Network). Next thing I know I am in the hospital awaiting my pressurized Lear Jet which was having a hard time getting permission to land in Tongan space due to the bureaucrats being at "church" as it was now Sunday and Tonga is essentially incapacitated by "God" on Sundays! -Jim's volunteer work for the past months had made him many a valued friend this day and I was the benefactor when it came to having the last canister of O₂ left on the island, but no one could approve the airport opening on the Sabbath. At one in the morning on Monday the airport was opened and my chariot arrived. Loaded into the jet I was whisked at sea level to Auckland, being fed finger sandwiches and fresh strawberries from silver platters by the medics. I was in need of a bit of pampering but this was heavenly!!

On arrival I was examined at the Naval hospital for an hour from head to toe and then placed in the chamber for 9hrs! Five days later I was released with few residual symptoms but continued to be fragile and a bit more disoriented than my usual pre-menopausal self.  Friends, Doanne and Wayne, from the yacht Bali Hi and Gala and Steve from Ariel came to my rescue but not before Philip from Vellamo absconded with me to a wonderful eve of Indian food and good red wine! (Although not on the recovery diet list, good red wine my lips had not seen the likes of in several months!) After 10 days of glorious pampering and exercise Jim arrived from Tonga and we explored the Bay of Islands traveling by car as we had so many other countries over the years but this time we were able to sell my art glass jewelry which was a huge boost to the cruising recreational budget. After three and a half weeks in New Zealand I was missing my kids so now I find myself on the Southern Cross II awaiting departure for Tonga by ship, as I am not recommended to fly for at least 6 months. I always wondered what it would be like to take passage on a cargo ship -- watch what you wonder!! The chronicle of this trip will follow.

6:30 pm-well after 3 meals I have a feeling that I am REALLY glad I have a few snacks with me-lunch wasn't too bad with roast chicken and potatoes and really I wasn't hungry for dinner but it was a good thing as it was ribs. --- Cut across with scant meat in-between and a disgustingly sweet hot sauce … and the potatoes from lunch!! -Oh well-not to mention that we took off and a short distance from where we left from we are now anchored as the central engine gave out. They suppose it is a fuel filter but the cook is from the Philippines and doesn't speak very good English sooooooooo I am guessing at what he meant-about 4 hours he said although I do not know how he knows! And by the way he adds-there is a low-pressure area just north of us so prepare for some bad weather! And no DVD's or English tapes so it looks like me and my Blue Planet DVD are going to get to know each other close and personal! Too bad all I can think about is diving when I watch it as they say I can not even think about it for a year and if I do resume diving they can't guarantee that it will not happen again and if it does there is almost certainty that I will not recover due to scar tissue in the small vessels of my brain and spinal column. Such is life-I just keep thinking how lucky I am to have seen most of what they are showing and what I haven't seen is mostly on land or in the top 20 feet so woe is me!! Spoilt is what I am-get over it and move on-time to write my proposal for filming the whales this summer!

March 26, 2004
The ocean is not being kind-the boat is rolling significantly and although I have never gotten seasick in my life I think I may have a go of it this time-we will see. I awoke this am with severe neck pain from the toss of the boat all night long. Although it could be much worse the roll gives my finicky neck a reason to flare. Looking at the computer screen is not helping-must go for now.

March 27, 2004
I can only say that I didn't continue my writing yesterday for a reason!-King Neptune had a way with me all day and night yesterday. Between tossing my cookies and having such a relentless headache and neck pain that suicidal thoughts consumed my dreams. Happily I made it to today by counting the hours 'till I can depart this tossing tin can. The seas are supposed to get worse however but perhaps my body has gone through its adaptation. I find it comical that I should get sick when have never before? Perhaps my proprioception also got bent?? I can only hope not!
The crew on this boat is discouraging Russian snobs-I never have been told where or what I can do-when I ask they say "whatever you wish" and laugh. So I stay between my room, which towers above the tossing ocean swinging me to and fro. Oh what I would not give for a room with no view in the bilge!! I think cargo ships are no place for this woman, although it is nice to have a shower which spits out tons of hot water, after the mandatory wait of five minutes of "brown stuff" -- most likely rust from the unused pipes as these crew do not smell like they use the showers often, but then who can really tell with the cigarette smoke billowing from their noses. Give me an airplane any day!!
10:30pm
Lunch today consisted of a portly hot dog in gruel. I opted for no dog, just gruel! I gave the dog to the German engineer who has made my stay so far palatable. He and the peon as we call him, are both from Germany but the peon is just here for a few months learning the trade first hand for very little money and then he will be allowed to study in earnest for a good paying job on a ship. The engineer has been working on ships for 30 years and has not been back to Germany in years.
Dinner was beef liver in chop-suey - I told the guys that I was going to either loose a lot of weight on this trip or I will have to start cooking for them!! -This stuff is crap!! I told them about the boys calling my first works from the kitchen "dog food" and I finally got a chuckle out of the Russian contingency. They at last began to talk to me and ask about the boys, being particularly interested in the schooling that they do on the boat but also what we do for money. The captain then gave me his two DVDs -Streets of New York and another silly movie-both with Russian subtitles but both of which I devoured this eve. Now the ship is back to its rocking and rolling so I shall sleep. At least I am not sick anymore.

March 28, 2004
I decided not to get up for breakfast, as I was tired and thoroughly enjoying my leisure. I read for a while then did my Pilates, took a shower and contemplated when I was going to run out of toilet paper. There is not much to do or see on this ship and some aboard liken it to prison. I am in a 7x7 area, which does have its own head, thank goodness, but that without this darn computer could be a lonely place for even this short jaunt. The German guy at lunch was telling me how they made all the crew go into a small area and searched the ship in Pago Pago last trip and he is still quite severe about it. He hates the Russian captain and all the other Russians on board and likens them to a pack of rats with their long pointy noses and their beady little eyes. I can't say as I can fault the comparison as they do really all look alike-they are all from the Ukraine and all have no sense of humor nor cut a smile unless you take a slash at the American government. The captain has it out for democracy and says the USSR was much better off before the fall as at least everyone was fed and schooled. The second in command disagrees saying that the quality of life for those who wish it is much improved now and there is freedom of choice, which the lack of he says kept the people stifled. The German guy also said that he brought up the fact that they should have checked on me this am to make sure I was in my cabin as I could have fallen overboard-the captain shrugged and said," not much we can do about it if she is"!-- After lunch I took a walk on deck-a few stairs and a dirty picnic table with fresh paint splotches on it is all I could find-nowhere else to go so back to my room I go.
8pm-spent some time in the pilot house tonight-great guys-again from the Ukraine and very educated and informative-we spoke about education in the old USSR where the government would pay you to go to school provided you kept a good GPA compared to now where they must pay to go to school. He thinks the former worked more to the advantage of the student, as it was a reward system. He also spoke to me about his wife who he married when she was 17 and he was 26. He has been a seaman all these years and works for 6 months and then off for 4-5 months. He has one 27-year-old daughter and she has completed school and is a professional. We will be in Nuku'alofa in the morning and I can exit the ship for about 4 hours. So off to bed I go.

March 29, 2004
Nuku'alofa Tonga-what a pit!! There are some very good carvers here however and I completed some good deals on black coral. I also found Chris a very nice fishhook for his birthday. I walked all day long throughout town and saw the King,s home and dealt with the internet place. I walked for over 6 hours with only a few 15 min breaks, one for a hideous meal which I left sitting on the table after two bites. Over all it was a bomb-I would not recommend this place to anyone!! Dirty and no redeeming factors at all that I could see besides perhaps meeting the king. Now I am back on the boat and we are swiftly moving on to Vava'u and I can't wait to see my kids and Hinano!! -Yikes - the engine just stopped and I know the engineer was totally blotto when he got back on the boat - stay tuned - I may never get to Vava'u!!
7 pm-well they fixed the engine and we are on our way-there was a huge fuel leak and they needed to take a part from the spare engine-sounds proverbial!! You could smell the stench all the way up to my floor. Not being seasick anymore, I closed my toilet room door and watched a Stephen Segal flick-The Foreigner, which the cook lent me. It's intermission time but the captain gave me Terminator III also so I am busy for the night-hopefully I will be in Vava'u in the morning!
9:45pm-Thunder and lightning of the likes I have never seen-I would set out to the bridge but I am apprehensive about walking up the metal staircase as I sit in a metal box! The wind is gusting so furiously that the boat is vibrating and the rain is pummeling my windows. Then the lightning blinds me with white light-god I just want to be home! I really do think I have endured enough on one trip. I don't believe I need this in order to be thankful for my life!-I do not currently feel in danger for my life but I am a tad bit sick of going through exciting experiences for a few months! Perhaps a bit of tedium would be a welcome thought!

March 30, 2004
This AM as I awoke I was tossed from my bed to the floor-a violent shift of 20+degrees. Scrambling to my window I saw huge seas although the sky was clear. Holding on I quickly took a shower while the water dogged from one side to another as the boat shifted with the swell. Drying was a challenge for sure but after dressing a true challenge appeared-getting up to the bridge to see what the captain had to say. The bridge being 2 floors higher than my stateroom, I was flung from side to side in the painfully narrow stairwell, although the reasons for its narrowness were obvious.
Entering the bridge the captain gave me a quizzical look --"good morning Kelcey", he says, "sleep well" laughing-- "Is it normal for the boat to list so much?" I asked. "Haven't seen it like this before" he replied. Well that made me feel better-should I stay up here and go down with the captain or go get my last meal?? Vava'u was in sight so the latter I chose. Two hours later we entered the beautiful area I call home -- and down came the rain with driving winds. As we attempted docking, each time the wind picked up, pushing us 5 meters too far from our target-frustrated as any sailor would be, as I could see the wind coming and didn't dare tell the Russian captain to delay his turn 3 minutes until the squall passed, I went down to breakfast but first gazed over at my own boat floating serenely in the bay, happy to have this adventure finished.

The "City of Boats" - Auckland, New Zealand